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Gene Array Technology and the Search for Cosmeceutical Actives

Summary and Key Features Gene Arrays can simultaneously analyze the effect of a given “bioactive” compound on altering the expression of over 5000 skin specific genes Bioactive compounds that inhibit the expression of inflammatory genes often simultaneously stimulate the expression of anti-aging genes, such as collagen Current data does not support a clear link between caloric restriction and life expectancy Sirtuins play a key role in…

Botanical Cosmeceutical Myths

Summary and Key Features Many cosmeceutical myths are presented in the popular press, but dermatologists should be able to distinguish truth from myth for patients Hyoallergenic means reduced allergy, not no allergy All cosmeceuticals contain preservatives Natural ingredients are not necessarily safer for subjects with sensitive skin There are no botanical ingredients that can be listed as providing sun protection Antiperspirants do not cause permanent damage…

Cosmeceutical Antiaging Myths

Summary and Key Features Expensive cosmeceutical moisturizers do not necessarily improve the skin barrier more than cheaper variants. The most expensive ingredients in most cosmeceuticals are the packaging and the fragrance Moisturizers increase the water content of the skin by occluding moisture loss and as such can only decrease wrinkles of dehydration Glycolic acid peels do not need to be painful to produce exfoliation Cosmetic retinol…

Acne Cosmeceutical Myths

Summary and Key Features Noncomedogenic and nonacnegenic cosmetics can still cause acne No cosmetic can reduce pore size Vitamin E capsules should not be opened and placed on the skin surface as they are designed for oral ingestion and absorption across the intestinal mucosa Not all sunscreens produce acne The only active ingredients that can be used in cosmeceutical acne products are salicylic acid and benzoyl…

Oily Skin

Summary and Key Features No definition exists for oily skin as oily is a patient perception While cosmeceuticals can remove oil from the skin surface, no cosmeceutical can effectively reduce oil production Facial powders are effective at absorbing oil as are oil absorbing tissue papers Many facial products for oil control contain niacinamide Cleansers cannot distinguish between unwanted facial sebum and intercellular lipids Oily skin is…

Facial Redness

Summary and Key Features Many cosmeceuticals have been developed to reduce facial redness based on the inclusion of anti-inflammatory agents The fastest way to reduce facial redness is with pigmented facial moisturizers or facial foundations Tea tree is found in many redness reducing products, but it is a cause of allergic contact dermatitis Bisabolol is a chamomile extract used in many products for sensitive skin and…

Cosmeceuticals and Contact Dermatitis

Summary and Key Features Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that contain bioactive ingredients with the intent to have a beneficial physiologic effect although there is no legal definition Contact dermatitis is one adverse reaction to cosmeceutical products and can be either irritant or allergic in nature, with the former being more common Vitamin E is a natural or synthetic component purported to have antioxidant and antiaging properties.…

Sunscreens

Summary and Key Features UVB (290–320 nm) and UVA (320–400 nm) are the wavelengths responsible for human photoaging. Micronized versions of the inorganic sunscreen actives titanium dioxide (10–30 nm) and zinc oxide (10–200 nm) allow these agents to be used by many skin colors. Photochemical stability, the ability of a molecule to remain intact after absorbing a photon of energy, is a vital characteristic of an effective UV…

Endogenous Growth Factors as Cosmeceuticals

Summary and Key Features Growth factors play a major role in skin repair and regeneration Topical application of growth factors alters expression of key extracellular matrix genes Clinical evidence shows increased collagen production and decreased facial fine lines and wrinkles Growth factors may be combined with other modalities of skin rejuvenation such as lasers and topical antioxidants Growth factors must be stabilized in formulations to ensure…

Nutritional Antioxidants

Summary and Key Features Some topical antioxidants (especially vitamins C and E, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q) and genestein) are effective in preventing UV damage to the skin (including sunburn, tanning, and skin cancer) and can reverse the appearance of wrinkles and the pigmentation of solar lentigos The formulation of each specific topical antioxidant is of utmost importance to assure stability in a commercial product with absorption by…

Stem Cell Cosmeceuticals

Summary and Key Features Regenerative medicine involves stem cells and is typically defined as a process of replacing or regenerating human cells, tissues and organs in order to restore or re-establish normal function. Effective stem cell based cosmetics and cosmeceuticals must be able to preserve growth factors while maintaining their effectiveness and allowing them to penetrate through the stratum corneum. The two main stem cell types…

Antiaging Benefit Ingredients: AHAs, PHAs, and Bionic Acids

Summary and Key Features Antiaging effects of cosmetic alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) have been demonstrated in rigorous clinical studies that have been published in peer-reviewed journals AHAs are commonly used as exfoliating agents, but their benefits are not limited to just exfoliation. AHAs (glycolic, citric, lactic acids) have been shown to increase dermal biosynthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen, and to improve quality of elastic fibers Lactic acid…

Skin Lightening Agents

Summary and Key Features Hyperpigmentation is a common skin problem that is particularly prevalent in middle-aged and elderly individuals that can detract from appearance and quality of life. Hydroquinone depigments skin by inhibiting the conversion of tyrosine to melanin by 90%. Kojic acid is used in concentrations between 1 and 4% and is often more effective in combination with other ingredients, but has been reported to…

Moisturizer and Barrier Repair Formulations

Summary and Key Features The stratum corneum is a dynamic structure that is continuously responding to a variety of daily exogenous factors that diminish its integrity and function The term ‘epidermal barrier’ is actually a collection of physiologic and homeostatic barrier functions, most of which correlate physiologically with normal stratum corneum structural and functional integrity The stratum corneum (epidermal) permeability barrier is composed of two functioning…

Cosmeceutical Metals

Summary and Key Features Metal ions have been used in topically applied skin care treatments for centuries While their use was initially based on empiricism, scientific data now explains many of the observed effects Well-established benefits for zinc include healing damaged skin as well as damage prevention Copper has also been established to support skin damage repair processes Selenium benefits appear to be tied to its…

Marine Cosmeceuticals

Summary and Key Features Dead sea magnesium salts have a variety of skin rejuvenating benefit Sea mud is used in facial masks and body wraps Brown algae contains antioxidants called phlorotannins Red algae mycosporine-like amino acids are natural photoprotectors Astaxanthin is a carotenoid found in microalgae Chitosan is a film forming agent that enhances wound healing Marine collagen is found in cosmetics and nutritional supplements The…