Marine Cosmeceuticals

Sea water

The composition of sea water varies based on location. The salinity of most sea water is 3.5% while the salinity of Dead Sea water is 7 to 10 times that of other oceans. Sea water contains a variety of salts, minerals and trace metals that have beneficial effects on the skin ( Table 9.1 ). The majority of sea water in the world contains primarily sodium salts while the Dead Sea boasts the highest concentration of magnesium salts. Magnesium salts have moisturizing properties, enhance barrier repair, increase antioxidant production and are known to be anti-inflammatory. Dead Sea water also contains calcium chloride which gives it a slippery feel and contributes to its skin smoothing effects.

Dead Sea balneotherapy has been used to successfully treat a variety of arthritic conditions and inflammatory skin disorders. In a study of subjects with atopic dermatitis, Dead Sea soaks significantly improved skin hydration, roughness and redness compared with tap water-treated controls. Dead Sea balneotherapy has been shown to be a safe and effective treatment for patients with psoriasis particularly when combined with Dead Sea phototherapy. In vitro studies have demonstrated that Dead Sea magnesium salts have antiproliferative effects on skin cells that contribute to the therapeutic effects of Dead Sea water on psoriasis.

The skin rejuvenating benefits of Dead Sea salts and minerals have also been confirmed. In a 4-week comparative study of 20 women, a gel containing a 1% Dead Sea mineral solution decreased skin roughness as measured by profiliometry by 40.7% compared with the same gel without minerals, resulting in an average reduction of 27.8%, while those using the control gel without minerals or antiaging additives had only a 10.4% reduction. More recently, Dead Sea Osmoter™ Concentrate (Ahava, Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd, Israel) composed of high concentration of Dead Sea water and green tea, grape seed and olive leaf extract was tested on human skin organ culture and shown to mitigate UVB-induced stress. The test Dead Sea Osmoter™ Concentrate (DSOC) preparation reduced UVB-induced apoptosis and protected against the light-induced reduction in proteasome and aquaporin 3 expression. The same DSOC was formulated into a serum that was applied to test subjects. The test serum resulted in a significant improvement in skin hydration as measured by corneometry at 0.5 and 8 hours after application. The authors suggest that this proprietary Dead Sea concentrate may be of value for improving skin's appearance and protecting skin from sun damage. In a separate study DSOC was combined with three Himalayan extracts forming a patented complex (Extreme Complex™, AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd, Israel). The Himalayan ingredients included Tibetan goji berries ( Lycium barbarum ), moss lichen ( Cetraria islandica ) and Himalayan raspberry fruit extract. This complex was then formulated into a day and night cream containing other antiaging ingredients. The finished products were tested on human skin organ culture and found to mitigate UVB induced TNF-α (tumor necrosis factor-alpha) and matrix metalloproteinase-1 ( MMP-1) production. There was also a reduction in UVB-induced apoptosis owing to the potent antioxidant activity of the patented complex. In addition human subjects using the test creams showed a reduction in periorbital wrinkle depth by PRIMOS at 4 weeks and an increase in skin hydration compared with untreated controls.

Sea mud

Sea mud is composed of organic and inorganic portions. The inorganic portion is rich in minerals that reflect the composition of the sea from which it is derived. The organic portion is primarily humic acid and comprises debris from decaying plants and animals. Pelotherapy refers to the use of mud wraps or mud packs that are generally warmed before being applied to the skin. Pelotherapy has been used widely to treat arthritis and other joint problems.

Sea mud is a popular cosmeceutical agent. Sea mud is used in spa and at-home treatments including facial exfoliators, masks, body wraps, cellulite treatments and body toners. The skin benefits of sea mud include hydration, restoring skin pH and improving circulation. Sea mud has been touted to improve active acne and have antiaging benefits. An evaluation of sea mud from Korea showed that humic acid from the organic portion of the mud was responsible for water-retaining properties while the minerals in the mud demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity. The minerals included sodium, magnesium and zinc. Thus both the organic and inorganic substances may provide skin benefits. A commercial product containing Dead Sea Mud, Dead Sea water, zinc oxide, aloe vera extract, pro-vitamin B ₅ and vitamin E (Dermud™, AHAVA Dead Sea Laboratories Ltd, Israel) was tested on UVB irradiated organ culture skin. Topical application of Dermud™ was shown to have antioxidant, anti-apoptotic and anti-inflammatory properties and reduce the harmful effects of UVB irradiation.