Physical Address
304 North Cardinal St.
Dorchester Center, MA 02124
Summary and Key Features
-
No definition exists for oily skin as oily is a patient perception
-
While cosmeceuticals can remove oil from the skin surface, no cosmeceutical can effectively reduce oil production
-
Facial powders are effective at absorbing oil as are oil absorbing tissue papers
-
Many facial products for oil control contain niacinamide
-
Cleansers cannot distinguish between unwanted facial sebum and intercellular lipids
Oily skin is a challenge for the dermatologist since there is a fine balance between removing enough sebum to get rid of facial shine while not inducing temporary skin dehydration. Many patients with oily skin are tempted to use strong detergent cleansers to remove sebum; however, the intercellular lipids are also damaged, yielding the appearance of dry skin. It is not possible for a cleanser to separate between sebum and intercellular lipids, thus a cleanser should be selected that minimizes barrier damage. Barrier damage is a problem created by many acne medications that contain skin irritants such as benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. Table 22.1 lists some of the cosmeceutical ingredients that might be helpful in products designed for oily skin.
Table 22.1
Cosmeceutical actives for oily skin
| Cosmeceutical | Effects on skin physiology | Patient selection comments |
|---|---|---|
| Niacinamide | Reduces amount of sebum collected on skin surface | Used topically in oil-reducing moisturizers |
| Polymer-absorbing beads | Bead uses van der Waals forces to absorb and hold oil in polymer sphere | Used in moisturizer to hold and absorb oil that reaches the skin surface |
| Salicylic acid | Oil-soluble exfoliant that can enter sebum-rich pore milieu | Used as an astringent to remove oily residue from skin surface and follicular ostia |
| Witch hazel | Astringent containing tannins from leaves obtained by steam distillation | Used to remove excess sebum from face in a tonic as an astringent |
| Papaya | Papain proteolytic enzyme removed from fruit and applied to skin surface | Enzyme removes oil and desquamating corneocytes from skin surface |
| Soy | Fresh soy milk fraction contains phytoestrogen genistein | Thought to be an anti-androgen hormonally reducing oil production |
| Retinol | Naturally occurring form of vitamin A functioning as a retinoid | Thought to produce a drying effect on skin similar to prescription retinoids on a lesser level |
These cosmeceuticals should be used in a stepwise fashion to obtain the best oil control results for a given patient, since each works on a different mechanism. Box 22.1 is a flowchart detailing how to use these substances in products combined to yield optimal results. This basic flowchart can be used to customize cosmeceutical treatment for patients depending on their degree of sebum production and gender.
Box 22.1
Flowchart for oil control
Step 1: Cleansing
Salicylic acid-containing foaming face wash.
Rationale:
Mild synthetic detergent cleansing with oil-soluble chemical exfoliant functioning in and around the follicular ostia.
Step 2: Toner application
Witch hazel astringent over oily T-zone (entire forehead, between eyebrows, and nose).
You're Reading a Preview
Become a Clinical Tree membership for Full access and enjoy Unlimited articles
If you are a member. Log in here
