Knots

Terminology

The most practical way to select a knot is to first evaluate what role that knot is expected to perform. The following knots are addressed based on function:

• Stopper knot—a knot tied at the end of a rope to keep something from slipping off the rope (e.g., figure 8 knot)

• End-of-line knot—a knot used to form a loop or other construction in the end of a rope to anchor, tie in, or attach the rope to something (e.g., double-bowline knot)

• Midline knot—a knot used to form a loop in the middle of the rope for clipping into, grasping, or bypassing a piece of damaged rope (e.g., butterfly knot)

• Knots to join two ropes—a knot used to connect two ropes of equal or unequal diameter (e.g., double fisherman's bend)

• Safety knot—a final knot tied into the tail of the rope after the original knot is tied to keep the original knot from deforming or unraveling (e.g., barrel knot)

• Hitch—a knot that is tied around something, which conforms to the shape of the object around which it is tied and that does not keep its shape when the object around which it is tied is removed (e.g., Prusik hitch)

• Tied loop—a knot that forms a fixed eye or loop in the end of a rope (e.g., bowline knot)

Anatomy of a Knot

• The working end of the rope is the section used to tie or rig the knot.

• The standing part of the rope is the section not actively used to form the knot or rigging.

• The running end of the rope is the free end.

• A line is a rope in use.

• A bight of rope is formed when the rope takes a U-turn on itself so that the running end and standing end run parallel to each other. The U portion, where the rope bends, is referred to as the bight .

• A loop of rope is made by crossing a portion of the standing end over or under the running end. Note that a loop, unlike a bight, closes. Many knots that form a loop from a bight in the standing part of the rope are named something on a bight , such as figure 8 on a bight .

• The tail of a rope is the (usually) short, unused length of rope that is left over once the knot is tied.

Examples of knots are presented in Figs. 60.1 to 60.24 .

Stopper Knots ( Figs. 60.1 and 60.2 )

A stopper knot is typically tied into the end of a rope to prevent the rope from exiting the system (e.g., tying a stopper on the end of a rappel line to prevent the rappeller from rappelling off the end).

End-of-Line Knots ( Figs. 60.3 to 60.6 )

These knots form a loop or bight in the end of the rope. The bight can then be used to attach the rope to something (e.g., an anchor).

The double bowline (see Fig. 60.4 ) is preferred for rescue over the less secure single bowline (see Fig. 60.3 ).

A figure 8 on a bight (see Fig. 60.5 ) creates a preformed loop, so it will function only if you can clip into the loop (e.g., with a carabiner).

The figure 8 on a bight is probably the single knot every potential rescue worker should know. Climbers and rescue personnel across the world use it. It is strong and easy to undo when loaded. It can be tied directly into a bight (see Fig. 60.5 ), or it may be tied as a retrace (or follow-through) (see Fig. 60.6 ). It is easy to tell when it has been tied correctly by quick visual inspection.